The first thing to realize is that an E34 is not Honda so it should
not be treated like one. The E34 is a well build car, but it will
require much more maintenance then say a Toyota Camry. Don’t
pick up an E34 thinking you just got a $6,000 BMW. There is no
such thing as a cheap BMW, period. Obviously, you will have to
care about the car. The E34 is a very durable car and will easily
roll over 200K miles, in style…
As with any used car, look for a well maintained example. Make
sure you have the history of the car to check if it has been properly
maintained. A pre-purchase inspection at reputable independent
BMW specialist is definitely recommended.
Check if the car is leaking anything
- If the engine is cold, open the hood and open the radiator
expansion tank cap and check how the coolant looks. Check if
there isn’t any oil in the coolant, this would probably
be because of a blown headgasket. Btw, it would probably be
a good sign if you find blue colored coolant in there. BMW recommends
a blue coolant, as do many BMW specialists, probably means the
car was taken to reputable shops.
Start the car and see how it idles. Rough idling might hint
at overdue maintenance.
- Let it idle for quite a while to see if it doesn’t overheat.
- Check for hesitation while accelerating.
- Play with the controls, see if they function correctly
- Play with the heater and air conditioning, see if they work.
If it’s an 89-92 E34 it might still be an R12 system,
check if it’s been retrofitted to R134a.
- If it’s automatic, see if it shifts smoothly. BMWs with
auto trannies seem to be a risk at over 100K miles. Many North
American 6 cylinder BMWs also use GM trannies.
- Check if the car brakes well.
- Shimmy under hard braking means the thrust arm bushings have
gone bad. If the car has over 80K miles, see if any front end
suspension work has already been done. It’s very common
for these cars to have balljoints and bushings go bad at 100K.
- Play with the window/sunroof switches, see if they work. The
window switches might simply be dirty if the power windows don’t
work. Easy to clean.
- Check the lower (plastic) door trims. If those are not there
anymore or if they’re worn, see if rust isn’t creeping
into the doors.
- If important to you, check if the cruise control still works
| Model |
Pros |
Cons |
Price* |
| 89-90 525i |
Inexpensive to buy. Solid, easy to
work on engine. |
Underpowered engine. Has a timing
belt which needs to be replaced every 30-50K miles along with
the waterpump. |
$1,000 - $3,000 |
| 91-95 525i |
Much improved engine. Great gas mileage.
Sensible choice. |
Make sure it isn't equipped with a
plastic waterpump. The automatic transmissions are build by
GM, does make them simple and fairly inexpensive to rebuild. |
(91-92) $2,000-$4,000
(93-95)
$3,000 - $6,000 |
| 89-93 535i |
Powerful, bulletproof engine. Possibly
the best overall E34. |
Headgasket and waterpump failure is
fairly common. (Too) few 535i models are equipped with a mnual
transmission. |
$2,000 - $5,000 |
| 94-95 530i |
Very smooth ride. |
Read the Nikasil
Engines page. |
$5,000 - $8,000 |
| 94-95 540i |
Awesome performance! |
Read the Nikasil
Engines page. Models with a manual transmission (6spd)
are hard to find. |
$6,000 - $10,000 |
*Prices based US market value estimates, rough estimates... These
cars are getting older so upkeep tends to dictate their value
more than anyhthing else. The above numbers are just what you
might roughly expect to pay for an E34.

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